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Power window won't go up anymore.

61K views 13 replies 10 participants last post by  KBM 
#1 ·
Hi Everybody,
I have a question about my power window on the driver side front. Last night it stop working. Won't go up. It went down but it wouldn't come back up. Now I have plastic on the window. I am wondering if it could be the switch because all of the other windows work fine. Or could it be the motor. Help.:b1:
 
#3 ·
Is there any noise when you use the switch?
 
#6 ·
Could be a bad switch, is the light on it still lit? Could be that a connector came loose, but I doubt that.
 
#8 ·
Could be a bad switch, is the light on it still lit? Could be that a connector came loose, but I doubt that.
Light is not associated with the window control circuit - it gets powered directly, so it wouldn't say much one way or the other.

Connector came loose - yes slim chance, but as you said - not likely.
If the connector came loose, more than just the driver's side "up" function would be affected.

My educated guess after reviewing the schematic:

Possible bad solder joint on the switch assembly PCB (you could DIY repair this at a low cost - only your time)

Possible bad switch - you would need to get a new PCB assembly
Possible "express down" module failure - you would also nee to get a new PCB assembly
(Replacing PCB assembly is also a DIY project - it's "plug and play", but you need to buy the part, it's a little over $50.00)

I would take the switch assembly out and go over the solder joints with a "fine tooth" comb to see if any have failed - reheat as necessary.
 
#9 ·
I have this same issue (yes, a few years late). I have found that the window goes down, but not up. But after taking the center of the door-panel out, I was able to "jiggle" the wiring harness, and the window went back up. But over time, that trick isn't working as well anymore. I don't know if it's the switch of something to do with the connection of the wiring harness to the motor.
 
#11 ·
I had that happen recently on my sons Neon. I removed the switch, opened it carefully and discovered the contact points in it had "welded" together. I took my pocket knife and opened them, grabbed some sandpaper and sanded the contacts and put it back in and it's worked perfectly for the past 7 weeks. Maybe you can try that.
 
#12 ·
Same issue today... Right rear window would power down, but not up. I discovered this as I went to shut it after parking in the grocery store parking lot and wanted to roll up all the windows. I was able to trouble-shoot the problem when returning home.

Trouble-shooting:

Double check condition. No codes. Both driver's switch and rear door switch operate properly but the motor does not receive current to lift the window.

Open the bolsters on the driver's door (master switch) and the trouble door (right rear).

Check for 12v supply at the rear door switch connector.

Pull switch from front passenger door and install in the rear door. - Same result - no lift.

At this point I considered switching wires to the motor to reverse polarity and lift the window to the closed position. I jumper'ed the wires but there was no response from the switch. This result pointed me back to the master (driver's) switch as power to the switches is routed through the master.

Disconnect the master switch and remove to the work bench. Carefully, using a thin blade screwdriver, lift the plastic tabs and work the body apart. There are three body pieces. The switch toggle heads have to be removed before the center black body piece can be separated from the circuit board.

Now down to the circuit board and switches, I was able to inspect for any damage. No heat signs or broken welds were noticed. When I turned over the board, the offending switch to the rear door fell off the board. ( hmmmm ) I reinserted the switch to the circuit board mounting points and checked the other three switches.

I took the circuit board out to the car for a test and all switches worked. I was able to raise and lower all windows.

Not bad for a Saturday night. Certainly saved the expense of a new master switch - for now. The switch is listed as $100 retail and $76 through Mopar Parts Overstock.
 
#14 ·
Used Marty's trouble shooting guide dated 2/7/15. Worked well. To remove the toggle switch head pull up on head and slide a slim stiff piece of metal up high by the pivot point and twist. (nail clipper cuticle cleaner worked for me).
3 of the 4 switches fell right out. I removed the toggle stem on the switch that wasn't working and cleaned up the contacts. I swapped the troublesome switch to the rear window just to be safe.
 
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