Thought it would be a good time to add this thread. Some of us already know about some of the errors. The first one that was found was that the section with info about the CVT omitted the part describing "L" on all years after 2007:
“L” Low
This range should be used for maximum engine braking
when descending steep grades. In this range, the transaxle
will ratio up only to prevent transaxle damage or
engine over speed while ratioing down will occur as
early as possible
We have quite a few 4-6% grades in our area that are
at 1/2-3/4 of a mile long.I never use low on them,providing
it's not raining heavily nor snowing I just pop on cruise at the
speed limit and let the cvt deal with ratio/engine braking.
The cvt is software protected and if it thinks it's over-revving
in low it will seamlessly change the ratios to deal with the
problem.
See if there's a manual for the Jeep Patriot/Compass...they're nearly identical to the Caliber in more respects.
Still, the Dodge service manual is available for free and obviously the best source of info, though I'm finding occasional differences between the 2007 manual and my 2010 Caliber
See if there's a manual for the Jeep Patriot/Compass...they're nearly identical to the Caliber in more respects.
Still, the Dodge service manual is available for free and obviously the best source of info, though I'm finding occasional differences between the 2007 manual and my 2010 Caliber
Hi Chris, I downloaded the FSM from a site, long ago, for something like $40, including the body part spec. Believe it covers 2007-08, so possibly there were a few edits from 2009 & up. Car had about 50,000 mi in 2015 - pretty clean. First DIY job was to remove the inside hatch trim panels & wiper motor, which shaft got bent in a freak accident (long story). This went well as the attachments for all 4 panels are pointed out on the drawings. The challenge with recent cars is to undo plastic parts without breaking anything.
Now in the process of changing the clutch master cylinder, and find that the manual is severely deficient. Getting to the cylinder mounting studs (inside cabin) is easier with the lower dash panel removed. It says to release the clips at the top edge, but the (drawing*) does not have any markings (balloon # with arrows) pointing to them, with tool #C-4755. (A popsicle stick should work). (*Worked as drafter/designer for 50 yr).
As for the master cylinder replacement, on LHD car, the manual does not say to shift (I think it is the ECU module) behind which the cylinder sits sandwiched between the brake M/C & McPherson strut housing. Even if the M/C is just for bleeding, it has to be temporarily displaced. Really, much of that manual is a lot of empty space, needless repetition & missing information. As for the bleeding operation, even if well explained, it is horribly planned. -oj
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Dodge Caliber Forum
255.3K posts
17.2K members
Since 2006
A forum community dedicated to Dodge Caliber owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, classifieds, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!