i have searched and not found this posted so i thought i would put up a brake install how-to for those hesitant to attempt the maintenance. after the dealer quoted me at $4-500 for the front brakes i decided it was something i would try to do myself.
what you need:
1/2" breaker bar
1/2" drive and torque wrench
3/8" drive and torque wrench
3/4 or 19mm socket to remove your wheels
14mm and 18mm sockets to remove the caliper and brake pad holder
brake pad spreader tool to push in the piston ($5.99)
brake cleaner in a can
wd-40 and a mallet or hammer to knock off the old rotor
car jack which can be found in your trunk
car jack stands for extra support
gloves
Rotors and brake pads too! Wagner ThermoQuiet Pads part no. PD866A are supposed to be decent and check with your dealer for your brake pakage, i needed 10.8" rotors
if you don't have tools like i didn't it will be expensive to buy all this stuff but it will more than pay for itself, especially if you start doing other work. more to follow...
I watched a series of You tube videos on changing rear pads and rotors on an old (1988 I think) car. Can't recall make and model. Anyway, the rear change out looked somewhat more difficult than changing front pads and rotors...to some extent because the car had an emergency brake mechanism involved with pushing the calipher as the pads wear down. The guy had to buy a special tool head (or do what he had to do with channel locks) which he said was an awkward uncertain thing.
Some questions:
Does anybody know of a DIY video for Caliber rear brake repair?
Are the rear brakes in a Caliber inherently more difficult to repair than the fronts?
Will the rotors wear down after 48,000 miles if the pads still have a decent margin of braking material left?
Ahh, good thread! My front brakes have a tiny squeal sometimes at very low speed low pressure stops. Might as well looks at replacing the pads/rotors soonish!
good thinking prop, I'll just pop the wheels off one of these days and clean up the brakes with some brake cleaner. See if that helps it before I do the replacement.
Thanks for the post. Looks pretty straight forward. Like other brake rotor and pad replacements i've done. Just never done the brakes on this Dodge Caliber. Thanks again!
Thanks for posting. I got hung up on my passenger front. Those clad nuts deformed on me ( what a dumb design) . I'm going to try and pry off the "clad" and see what I'll have to work with m
your instructions are very helpful though, so thanks
I decided I was going to try my hand at replacing my rotors and pads on my stock 2008 Caliber SXT. I got these because I wanted a small upgrade from stock and thought the slotted black looked nice.
I'm doing the job this coming weekend or next, depends on what day I can get off work. If all goes well then I'll also be doing my wifes 2006 Subaru Impreza, dealer quote ( she never goes anywhere else) $1000 for pads and rotors.
Thank you guys for such an amazingly simple break down on this. If it weren't for my rotors being both warped and corroded I would have had it done in no time.
Took 30 minutes of wiggling and pounding just to break my passenger side rotor loose.
Other than the tools that I didn't have this saved me roughly $230 over every shop estimate I got.
If I could only figure out the rep system on this site.
I Can't see any of the pics posted in here, so I'll make a short update and add the rear brake as well.
FRONT CALIBER:
Loosen the bolts and then turn the caliber from side to side in order to push back the piston enough to get the caliber off.
Hang it properly in order not to destroy the brakelines.
Remove the last part containing the pads, it has two bolts on the inside.
I Cleaned it with a steelbrush, and then greased the parts where the pads slide. I used a thin layer of copper grease.
I used a special tool to press back the piston, then greased the edge of the piston and the other side of the caliber that has contact with the pads. Again a thin layer of copper grease.
Installed the Rotor and the part containing the pads. Mount the part with the pads again with the bolts and then press the pads to the disc using the fingers.
Refit the caliber and then re-grease the sliders.
Dont forget to apply new grease. I used acid-free grease. This will ensure that the pads come back when you are done braking. If no or to little grease, the pads will stay at the disc and get worn.
The arrows indicate where the bolts are placed. The Green can be loosened with no problem. The upper Red has the brake line comming in, and you are lucky if it can be loosened with a wrench. No top will cover the bolt.
So forget it and push the caliber upwards, when the lower bolt is pulled out.
Pushing the caliber upwards, you can wiggle and push, then it will come off with the one slider bolt attached.
The pads are placed where the arrows indicate.
To remove the disc you'll need to wiggle the disc, but the handbrake can be to tight and prevent you from detaching the disc. Pull out the rubber piece (green arrow) and turn the disc until you see a small gear. Use a flat screwdriver to move the gear in order to loosen the handbrake until the disc comes off. I pulled the gear upwards, two teeth at the time until the disc came of.
Again - Remember to re-grease !!!
From here it's the same procedure with the steel brush, cleaning and re-greasing.
Pads in place and the caliber ready to be turned downwards and remounted.
I'll have to re-do the back with new pads in a couple of months, If you want more pic's please state I'll do some more then
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