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Did I get ripped off?

17K views 44 replies 16 participants last post by  Blackbelt 
#1 ·
Took my 2007 caliber sxt in today for an oil change and tire rotation, ended up leaving out more than $500.

Car has 48,000km.

$102.27 for Engine Tuneup: replaced all 4 plugs, not sure what else is included in a "tune up" but that seems rediculously expensive considering the cost of the plugs

$28.26 for air filter

$57.37 for oil change, tire rotate

$259 for rear brakes, machined drums and replaced rear shoes

My main concern is that the rear drums/shoes did not need service, and $100 for an engine tune up !?! They told me the front rotors and brakes need replaced and it will be $430. Did I get ripped off? Is dodge that ****ty where the drums last 2.5 years/48,000km ???
 
#2 ·
Plugs cost $3.00 each and takes an easy 20 minutes to replace.

Air Filter can be bought for under $20.

Oil change under $30, rotation under $19.

Rear brakes do 30% of braking, seriously doubt they needed service.

Front pads are around $50, unless you do a lot of stopping, should still be good.

I'd never let a dealer do brakes. You can do them yourself or have a brake shop do for less than dealer. Were you on drugs at the time that you would just give them the go ahead? I think you got ripped but good.
 
#4 ·
southwest chrysler dodge in london ontario canada.

the right rear brake was squeeking for a couple of monhts. dealership said they were scored and needed replacement. i know nothing about brake drums so gave the go ahead as i was advised it was unsafe to drive on them.
 
#7 ·
Yeah you pretty much got ripped off.

Plugs are fairly cheap and can be done in about 20 minutes. Thats all that is done on a "tune up" now days. No timing, points or anything else that needs to be done.

All the parts can be had at an aftermarket parts store for a fairly low price and replaced by you..

If you are unsure of the brakes take them to an aftermarket brake shop. You just paid all that money to have them put right back on your car what wore out so quickly. And you probably got a year warranty on the brake components you replaced. Most aftermarket shops in this area guarantee the pads for the life of the car. I highly doubt that the rear brakes were worn before the fronts..

LESSON LEARNED....
 
#8 ·
You got a good shafting. I'm glad I've learned how to do most of my auto repairs starting at 16 years old.
 
#9 ·
Every time I read something like this, I thank God that my father had me working on cars before I was old enough to drive them. I used to complain to him that I didn't see why I had to help him work on the car if he wasn't going to let me drive it. He always told me that one day I'd be thankful. Too bad he's been dead for twenty years. I'd tell him thanks everyday. I can't believe what the dealership charged you! I hope you at least got a kiss and some KY jelly too.
 
#11 ·
i am doing research so that i don't get ripped off on the rotors and pads for the front. i've heard EBC is good stuff. for the caliber there are GD7380 gold sport drilled rotors for $219 cnd OR USR7380 black zinc slotted rotors for $191 cnd. for pads the green ebc ones DP21614 are $110 cnd and the red ebc pads DP31614C are $118 cnd.

seems like way more money then the shop would charge. are those rotors/ pads overkill for the caliber? it would be just under $400 for the pads rotors and shipping. then i can try and install them myself....

what other rotors/ pads are ppl buying with good effect?
 
#12 · (Edited)
are those rotors/ pads overkill for the caliber? it would be just under $400 for the pads rotors and shipping. then i can try and install them myself....

what other rotors/ pads are ppl buying with good effect?
I have heard of Rossini but they are drilled not dimpled although 'they' say guaranteed no cracking.

Have you had the regular rotors 'warp'?

I don't think there is overkill on Rotors. It's the part I would most 'invest' in.
Red pads might be, green stuff already has bite.

Most have probably still had their rotors replaced under warranty so I'm expecting a greater after market choice as more are listed.

You may have seen my 'survey' with US$ prices - I would select at least slotted.
 
#14 ·
you got ripped off....actually anyone that takes it to the dealer does because they also charge labor most places.I learned to do things myself.When I would take it to dealers I would tell them my problem and ask them how much it would cost when they would tell me I would always walk out and found it was something easy enough for me to do in minutes.I actuall took my car to the dealer because my heater wasn't working they fixed the problem for about 200 bux and all it was was something unplugged from the knobs int the back but because they "diagnose" the problem and then fix it I got jacked.luckily it was under insurance and that took car of it but instead of just taking a peek myself they ripped me off.TO all be careful with dealers just because they are certified doesn't make them honest.THey could spend 15 min fixing something you might think is hard and charge you the whole hour plus parts.Learn your cars!
 
#15 ·
Labor costs are based on an industry book. If the book states one hour for a job, but takes 10 minutes in actual time, you still pay for one hour, and the tech gets payed for the one hour also. The only time I get my car repaired by a dealer is when it's a warranty repair. Otherwise I do it myself or have an independent mechanic fix it.
 
#19 ·
Don’t rip yourself buy after market parts if done right they will last 20,000 to 40,000 km and cost 1/3 less than all that fancy stuff you are looking into. No brake will last 50,000 to 80,000 especially rotors and if you are getting racing pads be prepared to be disappointed in stop and go traffic.
 
#20 ·
Hate to disagree with you but I'm at 141 000km on the original brakes, which is surprising to me coming from the factory.

Like Prop said, for normal day to day driving what you are considering is way overkill. Unless you've got slim rims and want to show them off, I'd just go the standard replacement. I've used Bendix in the past for quick/cheap repairs, probably not the best but they work and can't beat the price (did rotors/pads drums/shoes all 4 corners for $140 tax in).
 
#32 ·
I doubt the Caliber is different than the usual brakes out there, I'm doing mine soon but haven't done them as of yet. But on 4 other cars I used the exact same tools:



These are for the rear brakes, you don't need them all but it's a good example. I have a double ended socket wrench - which I wouldn't recommend (it digs into your hand... hehe). This tool pushes in the retainer cup so you can twist and unlock the cover to get at the other springs behind it.

Biggest tip I could give is do one side at a time, using the other intact one as a reference. It looks daunting when you take the drum off but it's really not that bad. The 2 socket screwdrivers, the "leveraging" screwdriver and the spacing adjustment tool (the 2 on the left ) don't cost much.

Up front you'll need a typical set of wrenches and allen keys or the kind you can attach to a ratchet is preferred for leverage. Lots of "breaking" oil like WD40 or other before you start trying to undo. It shouldn't be too hard to get off being relatively new, if they are - use a wrench (the entire round end, not the open end) and tap with a hammer (in the right direction) to get it started and then go back to ratchet.

Once you get the caliper off, don't let it hang by the brake hose/line. Tie it up to something like the lower control arm so it's out of the way while you do the other things.

When I put the new rotors on I use clean rags to hold it and move it into position so I don't have to clean off greasy handprints once it's on hehe!

Just some tips that have worked for me in the past.
 
#33 ·
are oil filter wrenches universal or is there a specific size that the caliber needs? i think i have an idea of all the tools i need to complete the task. if i ever get it done i will try to take some pics for others hesitant to take on the task by themselves.
 
#34 ·
I used in the past, a large socket (for my ratchet wrench) made for oil filters. They cost around $5.00 each and come in several different sizes. You have to buy the right size for the brand of oil filter you use.

I now use a K&N oil filter. It has a 1 inch nut welded on the bottom of the filter so i use a 1 inch socket with my ratchet wrench for this oil filter.
 
#35 · (Edited)
There are one size fits all oil wrenches, most commonly a metal strap style with a grip foot that auto adjusts to the size of the filter. There are other fancy schmancy ones out there (like Canadian Tire has a rubber strap style) but the ol' metal strap one does just fine.

Remember not to overtighten the new oil filter, you shouldn't be using a ratchet to put a filter on unless you're used to putting them on - way too tempting to over tighten. Lube up the gasket on the filter with clean oil.
 
#37 ·
I wouldn't accept them. It sounds like someone got the wrong ones, tried putting them on, and returned them already. I hate that when people take stuff back and the store doesn't bother to verify that it is fit for resale. Reminds me of the time I bought one of those 5qt jugs of oil at Walmart. I went to change my oil and the seal was broke, and used oil was inside.
 
#38 ·
I got ripped too, but my own fault - I took my car into the dealer for State inspection (walking distance from work, otherwise no way) - before I went I had replaced all 4 tires, the plugs were replaced in January when my TCM went (nightmare) - the air filter was new. They did not find anything wrong, but made some suggestions. I did not fall for the $120 fluit flush, and did not do the $140 injector cleaning (ran injector cleaner through a few times this spring) - but I did pay $100 for the throttle body service. I had expected to need brake pads and rear shoes. But since I didn't - I figured spend some on maintenance and hope for Karma.

they did tell me my rear brakes are at a 3 and my front brakes are a 9 - how do the rears wear out first? Is it because they are too small?
 
#39 ·
I am ready to replace some rear brake pads on my 2007 2.4 R/T AWD - 48,000 miles. I have loosened the lower guide pin bolt and decided to check this forum for tips. I saw somewhere where the rear brakes did 30% of the braking and a car with 48,000 miles shouldn't need new pads. The shop guy told me I had 20 % pad material remaining which I take to mean another 10,000 miles or so.

At this point, I wonder how to measure my rear pads and decide whether I need to replace them. Must I swing the caliper out of the way to see the pads or is there a way to inspect the pads with the caliper in place? If I was designing a car and thinking about maintenance, I would try to give the owner or the mechanic an accurate way to sight check the brakes for wear. But that might not be possible.

In an idea state of affairs, garage mechanics and dealers would not tell you that you needed more work than you really needed. Unfortunately, we have come a long way from there.
 
#40 ·
Personally, when my pads hit 20% life left, I replace them. The thinner the pad, the more likely it is to fail. I can't say about the rear calipers, but if they're similer to the fronts, you should be able to see the pads from a hole in the top of the caliper once you get the wheel off.

EDIT: I can't say about the rear calipers because I have rear drums on my Caliber, but almost all calipers have an inspection hole on the top of the caliper.
 
#41 ·
Louderman,

Thanks for the tip. I'll try to examine the rear pads as you say. I would probably replace @ 20% as well, but I am not sure these people are giving me good information (about 20% remaining). Did they look through a hole and wag an estimate or did they take the calipers off and mic the pads for wear? I don't know. I'd guess they sight-checked the pads through the calipers, as you suggest.

Another question as you seem to know about brakes. Is it common or uncommon for front and rear brake pads to wear out at the same rate? If the rear brakes account for 30% of the car's braking and are notably smaller than the front pads, does that mean the front and rear pads should wear out at the same time?

Furthermore, when I changed the front pads earlier today, I thought I saw the outer pads notably more worn than the inner pads (or maybe vice versa). Is that normal? If not, any cause for concern?
 
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