Dodge Caliber Forum banner

How To Make The Cheap HIDs (possibly) Work

55K views 180 replies 47 participants last post by  Aleks 
#1 · (Edited)
This topic comes up often. Those Cheap HIDs sold on ebay that never work on the Caliber because of the TIPM. I figured it was time to address it with the only known work around to make them work.

You'll need relays similar to this:
relay rated 12V @ 40A


Weatherproof inline fuse holders similar to this:


And this drawing:
 
See less See more
2
#2 ·
Very simple and straight forward, great job. This was an issue I also faced though my HIDs were rather pricy but not plug and play.
 
#68 ·
Need solution

For those that are having problems with HID upgrade Flicker Problem. I had this in my wife's 2008 Dodge Caliber and its been working for 5 months now.
See Instruction Below
So my friend and I tried the solution suggested. we got the resistors suggested and found that they got really hot. To the point, it just about melted the wiring around it. This was about 5 minutes after the HIDs were on we saw smoke. Is there another solution that we can try?
 
#5 · (Edited)
I already published this solution in the Knowledge Base.;)

I've added this to the knowledge base thread I started.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Print out the posting and go to your favorite auto parts store. All the parts are generic and the people there can help you find it. If you know a friend that is good with electrics, enlist their help. This isn't something that a person with no electrical knowledge should tackle.
 
#9 ·
Couple quickies RE: Opacheco' drawing:

Question to Prop1 - Are the 10 ohm resistors in place of the light bulbs actually required? (to tell TIPM that headlight circuit is ok or the like?)

Comment to all - If you use this setup, the resistors will get pretty hot, make sure that they are away from anything that can melt or burn when they are installed
 
#10 ·
I would assume the coil of the relay would have the resistance equivalent to the original bulbs. I doubt 10 watt resistors would get very hot used as they will be, and are probably overkill. I used a similar setup on my Land Rover for my 4 off-road driving lights, and never used a resistor on the coil.
 
#12 ·
The resistor has to go in series with the head light power and that feeds the ballast input. If that's the way you are doing it, which does not require the relay. If you ar using the relay you don't need the resistor. The head light power connects to the relay coil. 12 volts from the battery goes to one side of the relay contacts and the other goes to the ballast.
 
#14 ·
The TIPM monitors all of the electrical components of the car. If the current draws isn't within what it expects it to be, it will try to correct the condition by turning the circuit on and off. Eventually, if the problem doesn't clear, it turns the circuit off permanently, and requires a reset. Most times that requires a visit to the dealer.
 
#16 ·
I don't know from what you have posted as to how you have the HIDs connected electrically. If you have the relay connected properly, the HIDs shouldn't flicker. The HIDs should be getting their power directly from the battery via the relay. Unless you can better describe what you have done, I can't help you. If you're not good with electrics, I suggest you enlist the aid of someone you know that does.
 
#18 ·
Just as I instructed in my original post, one that they sell at auto parts stores for add on lights. Should be an SPST.
 
#20 ·
just to add to this because i am searching the topic for my Wife's Caliber. I have an '09 Wrangler Rubicon with the same issue. In Jeep land we add a capacitor and diode to the relay control circuit to make the pulse width modulated signal by the vehicle a steady source to the relay. Been working fine on my JK for about 9 months now.
 
#26 ·
ok need some help hear i bought a nice set off like no not cheep ons kame with wireing kit and i added the two 10 ohm resistors like some one said but they get way to hot i even tryed heat sinks and thermo paste i just don't trust them under my hood any one got any better ideas i have a 2009 so i have to keep the computer happy
 
#27 · (Edited)
The resistors are to go in series with the control signal from the OE headlight connector to the relay control. They should not be getting hot as there is little load on them. You must have put them in series with the ballast power that comes from the battery through the relay. People that no nothing about electricity should not be installing their HIDs.
 
#32 ·
Wondering...

Brad:

I've encountered the same problems that this fix will cure: flashing of one the beams. This fix was confirmed by OMNI-X (my supplier) prior to my discovering your thread on this forum, that the adding of two resistors to the harness (at the same location) as shown in opacheco's diagram on his 06-09-2009 post, would address this problem.

For the record, my harness is exactly the same as depicted in the afore-mentioned diagram. The lamps are to be installed in the car's stock headlight housing. As for OMNI-X's products, we've installed their HIDs (9145) in the cars running lights and they've been working like a charm.

My mechanic's concern was the fact we were combining two circuits with the resistors via a common ground. Should this be a concern? My research hasn't found this to be an issue. I've been unable to get OMNI-X to shed any light on our concern, as they seem to be encountering problems, again, with their Internet/Phone systems...

What are your thoughts on my mechanic's concern?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Bob
 
#33 ·
Brad:

I've encountered the same problems that this fix will cure: flashing of one the beams. This fix was confirmed by OMNI-X (my supplier) prior to my discovering your thread on this forum, that the adding of two resistors to the harness (at the same location) as shown in opacheco's diagram on his 06-09-2009 post, would address this problem.

For the record, my harness is exactly the same as depicted in the afore-mentioned diagram. The lamps are to be installed in the car's stock headlight housing. As for OMNI-X's products, we've installed their HIDs (9145) in the cars running lights and they've been working like a charm.

My mechanic's concern was the fact we were combining two circuits with the resistors via a common ground. Should this be a concern? My research hasn't found this to be an issue. I've been unable to get OMNI-X to shed any light on our concern, as they seem to be encountering problems, again, with their Internet/Phone systems...

What are your thoughts on my mechanic's concern?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Bob
I do not like the resistor solution. It works on some HIDs, but not all. I still prefer the relay solution because it takes the HIDs out of the TIPM circuit completely.
 
#34 ·
Harness already has a relay, I think...

Brad:

I believe my harness has a relay. as the four wires described in opacheco's diagram enter into, what I believe is a relay. The connection is a multi-pin affair, very similar to a computer's hard drive connection: flat and has approximately 10 pins.

Needless to say, the flashing occurred with this setup and that is why we are endeavoring to fix the problem via the resistor route.

Could you comment on our concerns about the common ground and if that constitutes combining the high and low beam circuits?

Best regards,

Bob
dbcscanada@hotmail.com
 
#35 ·
Brad:

I believe my harness has a relay. as the four wires described in opacheco's diagram enter into, what I believe is a relay. The connection is a multi-pin affair, very similar to a computer's hard drive connection: flat and has approximately 10 pins.

Needless to say, the flashing occurred with this setup and that is why we are endeavoring to fix the problem via the resistor route.

Could you comment on our concerns about the common ground and if that constitutes combining the high and low beam circuits?

Best regards,

Bob
dbcscanada@hotmail.com
Can you take a picture of this supposed relay? I don't think it is, or it at least isn't the correct one for the application. As far as the ground, ground is ground.
 
#36 ·
I just did the HID conversions earlier this week, and used the Resistor mod. Works flawlessly with the headlights. I have yet to do the fog lights, but will be using the resistor mod with them as well.

And yes, the 10w/10o resistors *DO* get HOT! So make sure they are in an area that will not melt anything...

Thanks for this post...
 
#41 ·
I need help to ive ready everything and still my shut off while driving, i have a relay ive tryed capacitors/cancellors ive tryed 3 different ballasts and bulbs, and they still flicker, move up and down a bit on start ups and shutting off, maybe i do need resisters but i have 50w 6ohm ones and where should i put them on the wires going to the light bulbs or just one side where its coming from the relay? or what???
 
#42 ·
I don't know how you connected your HIDs. Are you controlling the relays with the headlight output, and the HIDs get power from the battery through the relay contacts?
 
#44 · (Edited)
How many relays? One for each HID? The issue isn't the HIDs at this point. They are no long off the TIPM. Your problem is a relay that has a coil with too low a resistance. Put a resistor in line with the relay control ground. But before doing that, make sure the relay isn't overheating. If it's getting hot, then it's sized too small and that would cause the issue.
 
#46 ·
First, answer these questions so there are no misunderstandings:

  1. How many relays?
  2. Are you sure the headlight circuit is powering the coil of the relay?
  3. Is the relay rated for the current of the HIDs?
  4. Is the other side of the relay coil properly grounded?
  5. Last, and this is a big one, are you sure the HID ballasts aren't overheating? If the ballast are located where they are not getting enough air circulation, the built up heat will cause them to thermally shut off. This sounds more like your problem because the TIPM issue causes flashing or flickering before turning them off.
 
#47 ·
Hey so ya I only have one relay and it's ground to battery ground termal and it's a proper relay from a hid kit not sure the watt theres no writing on it and then Tge ballasts are I'n sn area to get lots of air and they only got a lil warm and ya it's all hooked up right
 
#48 ·
Next time, check the relay after the HIDs go off to see if it is getting real hot. HIDs draw a lot of power and it could be that could be the issue. 2 relays maybe the fix.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top